AC repair in Tampa

Common failures in Tampa systems

A system that runs seven months a year wears faster than one that runs three. These failures show up most often, with the signs that go with them.

Capacitors and contactors

A capacitor gives the motors in the outdoor unit the jolt they need to start. A contactor is the switch that powers the unit on. A bad contactor makes the AC stutter as it tries and fails to start. An outdoor unit that hums but does not start often points to one of these parts.

Frozen coil

Ice on the indoor coil or the refrigerant lines means the coil is too cold to shed its moisture. Restricted airflow is one cause, such as a dirty filter or a blocked return. Low refrigerant is another. Your tech finds which one. Keep the system off while the ice melts, and do not chip it away.

Clogged drain line

In a humid city the drain line handles a lot of moisture. Mold, mildew, dirt and debris build up and slow it. A backed-up drain can leak at the air handler, or it can trip a float switch that shuts the system off. Standing water in the drain pan is worth mentioning to your tech.

Refrigerant leaks

An air conditioner should never need more refrigerant unless there is a leak or the refill is part of a repair. A system that is low on refrigerant cools poorly and can ice up. Ask whether your tech will find and fix the leak or only add refrigerant. Only a service technician should check or adjust the charge.

Fan motors

The outdoor fan and the indoor blower both have motors that wear out. Weak airflow at the registers, a squeal, or a fan that spins slowly are the usual signs. A failed condenser fan motor can lead to compressor trouble, so a noisy outdoor fan is worth a prompt look.

What to check before you call

1. Thermostat. Confirm it is set to cool, the set temperature is below the room temperature, and the batteries are fresh if it uses them.
2. Filter. A clogged filter limits airflow. Replace it if it is dirty.
3. Breaker. Look at the breaker for both the indoor and outdoor units. When a fuse blows, the outdoor unit turns off. If the breaker trips again after one reset, stop resetting it and tell your tech.
4. Outdoor unit. Check whether it is running and clear of debris. Do not open panels or touch the refrigerant lines.
5. Drain pan and float switch. If your system has a float switch and the pan holds water, the switch may have turned the system off. Mention what you saw.

Jot down what you noticed and when it started. A clear description saves diagnostic time.

Small things that look like big problems

Some service calls end with a five-minute fix. A thermostat set to heat, dead thermostat batteries, a dirty filter, a closed or blocked register and a tripped breaker all stop a system from cooling. Find one of these and you may save yourself the visit. If the problem returns within days, tell your tech what you changed and what you saw, since a part that keeps tripping a breaker is a part to look at.

How repair visits are priced

Many companies charge a service call fee to diagnose the problem and then apply it to the repair. Ask whether yours does. The cost guide lists typical ranges for the repairs above.

EPA says technicians who service this equipment must hold a Section 608 certification. A repair that involves refrigerant is a job for your tech and never a homeowner project.

Symptoms and likely causes

Here is what each symptom usually points to. Your tech confirms the actual cause.

• Warm air from the vents. Low refrigerant, a failed outdoor fan or compressor, or a tripped breaker.
• Weak airflow. A dirty filter, a failing blower motor, a blocked return or leaking ducts.
• The system runs often but does not cool. A dirty coil, a refrigerant leak or a unit that is too small for the house.
• Short cycling. The unit turns on and off in quick succession. Common causes include a clogged coil, a thermostat problem or an oversized unit.
• Humid, clammy rooms. The system is not removing enough moisture, which can point to airflow, charge or sizing.
• Musty smells. Moisture in the drain, the pan or the ducts.
• Knocking, clicking or gurgling. Loose parts, a failing motor, or a drain that is not moving water.

When repair stops making sense

A single cheap repair on an older system is usually worth doing. A string of repairs on a system past 12 to 15 years often is not. A common rule of thumb is to consider replacement when a repair would cost at least 50 percent of a new system. The replacement page covers what to weigh, and the inspection page explains how to read the age of what you have.

What to ask your tech

• What is the diagnostic fee, and is it applied to the repair?
• Can I have the quote in writing, with the part and the labor listed separately?
• Is the part new, and is the problem the cause or a symptom of something else?
• If refrigerant is low, will you find the leak or only add refrigerant?
• How old is my system, and does this repair make sense at its age? What would you do if it were your house?
• Ask for their state license number.